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June 30, 2005

Kodiak Russian Cemetery

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Walking around town I came upon the Russian Cemetery.  Russian fur traders came to the southern Alaskan coast in the late-18th, early 19th-century.  The oldest house still standing is from 1808.  As I later learned at the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, the Russian settlement of Alaska was not very successful.  The original fur traders hunted the sea otter, densest fur of any animal, to near-extinction.  That resource gone they introduced silver and blue fox to a number of islands, raising the animals for their fur.  Tastes in fashion changed and Europeans were no longer wearing fox.  Gold, oil and other mineral resources were found but not exploited in any real way.  Finally they gave up and dumped it on the Americans.

Some gravesites were well-kept, others were in an advanced state of decay.  The skies opened up and it started pouring while I was taking these photos.  Luckily I had the foresight to pack my wet weather clothes for Kodiak.  Everything I brought to the island was either waterproof or quick-drying.  The cotton clothes were left in the trunk of the rental car on Homer.

At the Movies

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The movie theater in Kodiak.  Madagascar and the latest Star Wars movies were playing while I was there.  I chose Star Wars.  Star Wars came out when I was sixteen.  I saw it at the Kallet Theater in Pulaski, NY.  It was the last movie I had to be driven to by one of my parents.

Marys_beer

A Brooklyner Weisse at Mary's Fish Camp in the West Village.  A beer and Mary's mako shark BLT with onion rings hit the spot for lunch yesterday. 

After lunch saw a double feature at the Film Forum.  They are running a series of movies made by Paramount Studios before the Hays code was implemented.  Yesterday's features were Murders in the Zoo and Island of Lost Souls.  The latter being one of the creepiest movies ever made.  Sunday and Monday they have a Marx Brothers double feature:  Duck Soup and Horse Feathers.

Another movie choice for Monday night:  Some Folks Call It Un-American along with the band The Mountain Goats.  On top of the Fulton Mall parking garage.  Fireworks will be visible.

June 29, 2005

At the Crab Festival

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I was not in a tourist/sightseeing/photography mood that first morning in Kodiak.  I think I was just tired, as it took me forever to get going that day.  Even though I wasn't in the best of moods the Crab Festival was great, furthering my theory that isolated, smaller communities throw the best festivals.  Alaska King Crab were once king in Kodiak.  The crab catch has declined so much in recent years that salmon and other fish are now more important.  I was a day late for the crab parade.

A bicycle race, a marathon, an ultramarathon ("three started, three finished"), and a race up a mountain and back all ended at the Harbor Master's building, next to the fairgrounds.  As contestants were finishing their respective races to cheers, the Fisherman's memorial service was being held in front of the Harbor Master's building.  It was a beehive of activity. 

After the memorial service the Kid's Sawdust Pile began in the parking lot across the street.  The Lion's Club scattered a thousand dollars in coins in a giant sawdust pile for kids to find.  I was expecting it to be a mad house but the kids were pretty well-behaved.

The King Crab sandwich I had was delicious, despite the Subway bread and melted american cheese.

Kodiak Groceries

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The kosher section at the Kodiak Safeway.  I was surprised that there was a separate kosher section.

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Lay's Dill Pickle Chips

I learned of Lay's Dill Pickle chips from Tien last December.  You can't buy them in the city but I managed to find some when I was upstate at Christmas.  Mmmm, they are junk food excellence.  I bought another bag when I went to DC last winter.  As that bag ran low I went to several grocery stores in the city without any luck.  Desperate, I called Lay's consumer hotline.

"Where can I buy your dill pickle chips in NYC?"
"What's your zip code?"
"10026"
"We have them in Buffalo.  Will that work for you?"
"Buffalo is 400 miles away."
"Oh."

The rep said they can't keep up with demand, and that they will expand the sales area as production capacity increases.  I was a bit dubious about that explanation.  How hard can it be to buy some more Twang and spray it on potato chips?

Walking down the snack aisle in the Kodiak Value Center grocery store I see the chips.  Doesn't it seem odd that Lay's can't supply the largest market in the country but can supply a non-chain grocery store on an island of 13,000 people in the North Pacific that can only be reached by ship or plane?

June 28, 2005

Kodiak's Primary Industry

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Anyone care to guess what Kodiak's primary industry might be?

The Star of Kodiak, in the second picture, was a World War II liberty ship.  It was brought to Kodiak following the 1964 tsunami and is used as a cannery.


June 27, 2005

Welcome to Kodiak

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After the long ferry trip, during which I read a great portion of Caren Lissner's fine novel, Carrie Pilby, it was nice to have a warm welcome in Kodiak.  The Crab Festival was in full-swing.  I got there just as the police were breaking up a teen-age fistfight. 

I was on the island for two days.  The first day I took in the Crab Festival and explored the town on foot.  The second day I rented a car and got out of town.  I did not fly out to see the bears.  It rained a lot while I was there.

Note:  I'm at home this week using up the last of this year's vacation days.  My internet connection, which is usually good, has been really inconsistent the last few days so bear with me while I work through that problem. Right now, though, I'm off to see the new Dinosaur exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History.

Light Saber Spoon

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They were probably still called Sugar Smacks the last time I bought them, but how can I resist getting a box of Honey Smacks when a light-up Saber Spoon is enclosed?  The cereal is still delicious in a 56% sugar by weight sort of way.  With his violent past is Dig'Em a Jedi Knight or a Sith Lord?

Unrelated, but wow:  Take a look inside Detroit's Guardian Building.

June 26, 2005

Leaving Homer

Bishop's Beach

Hotel Room

That's pretty much it for my room at the Driftwood Inn.  Shower and toilet are behind the bed.  Storage space below the bed.  Sink is to the right.  Bunk bed on top.  There were big wooden hooks against the wall to hang stuff on.  Despite the tiny size, the room was nice and clean.  The people running the inn were very nice and answered all my pesky questions!

I only stayed one night before leaving early the next morning on the M/V Tustumena to Kodiak.  The ferry takes 9.5 hours.

leaving homer

foggy sea
It was rainy or foggy for much of the ferry trip.  We did see lots of puffins, a couple of sea otters, and a few killer whales.  All too far away to be photographed.

one of the barren islands
One of the Barren Islands, about 4 hours into the trip.

More Barren Island and other trip photos on flickr.

June 24, 2005

Truck Fire!

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There was a truck fire earlier this evening at 114th and Frederick Douglass.  I could smell the fire as I came out of the subway at 116th St.  There were lots of flames when I first saw it, but the firemen had it under control by the time I got the camera out and got a little bit closer.  You can see a little bit of flame in the truck's cab in the top photo.  Nobody was in the truck and I didn't see anybody hurt.  It looks like the motor for the cherry picker in back caught on fire.  They may have been putting up a sign for the trendy new restaurant on the corner.  Yes, trendy, at 114th and Fred Douglass!

June 23, 2005

Homer!

You drive beyond Anchorage heading east along Turnagain Arm, cliffs of the Chugach Mountains to your left.  Are there any Dall Sheep?  Can't look, the road is too winding.  The train from Seward is between you and Turnagain Arm to your right.   Ignore Girdwood.  Bypass Portage Glacier, you can't see it anyway. Bypass Whittier.  Whittier will come later.  Note the trees killed in the 1964 earthquake.  Make the turn at the end of Turnagain Arm, driving west along its southern shore for a short distance.  The road turns inland and climbs up a glacial valley.  Drive on past the Hope Cut-off.  Beyond Summit Lake the highway continues to Seward, but Seward isn't on your itinerary this trip.  Take a right onto the Sterling Highway.  You're surrounded by the Kenai Mountains, driving parallel to the Kenai River.  The Anchorage radio stations have all faded out.  You were prepared for this.  Pop The Very Best of Ray Charles purchased at a very low price at Fred Meyer into the rental car's cd player.   There's no fast-forward or track selection on the cd player.  If you want to hear the last songs on the cd you need to hear all the songs on the cd.  Stop at Gwin's for lunch.  A lunch you'll remember for the next 12 hours.  Coming out of the mountains you're surrounded by flat lands and scrubby spruce.  This is all you'll see for the next 50 miles.  You speed up.  65, 70, 75.  A state trooper headed in the opposite direction motions for you to slow down.  You can live with 65.   The traffic isn't too bad for the Friday of Memorial Day weekend.  Then again, maybe this is heavy traffic for the Sterling Highway.  No need to stop in Sterling.  Gas up in Soldotna.  You like Ray Charles but he's now repeating himself for the third time.  One radio station and it's not doing anything for you.  Throw in the six-dollar Sarah MacLachlan live cd.  It's not too bad and she doesn't sound like Ray.  The highway runs inland here.  No looking over to the right to see Cook Inlet and Mt. Redoubt beyond.  The rustbucket Nissan behind you alternates between staying a quarter-mile back and zooming up to within a couple of car lengths of your bumper. Finally it passes you.  Stop at Ninilchik.  Ninilchik is busy!   No eagles though, and it's too cloudy to see across the inlet.   Less than an hour to go now.  Beyond Anchor Point the road turns southeastward.  The clouds begin to thin.  Up over one last hill and

Homer
It's Homer!  Founded by a gold prospector and con artist from Brooklyn. 

Homer from Bishop's Beach
Homer!  Kachemak Bay, the Spit, and the Kenai Mountains beyond.

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Homer!  Where the Land Ends and the Sea Begins.

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Homer!  Halibut Capital of the World.

Heidi Marie Maidenhead

Ahh, Homer!

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